Learn the six simple steps to draft a custom fit bodice pattern block!
Why custom pattern blocks?
If you are interested in making clothing tailored to your body, learning how to draft a set of custom fitting pattern blocks is a must! If it seems like it is to confusing and should be left to the professionals, I’m here to tell you…it’s not that hard! Read on to learn the six simple steps to make your very own, tailor made bodice block!
In this post, I review the simple steps to draft the custom fitting back bodice pattern. Please see the tutorial on how to draft the front bodice pattern.
Check out my pattern-making 101 series to learn more tips, tricks, and tools of the trade!
Step 1 – Establish reference points
- Use a piece of paper large enough to fit your bodice block
- Draw a right angle (TIP: the best tool for the job is a “L” Square)
- Using a measuring tape, measure from your natural waist line to your back neck and record this measurement
- Mark this point on the right angle
Step 2 – Establish the shoulder measurement at the neck
- Measure the width between the center back line and the inside edge of your shoulder, record this distance (it is best to use the same measurement from the front bodice draft)
- Draw a vertical line using the recorded measurement width
- Next, measure from the neck to the waist line, record this measurement
- Mark this distance on the vertical line
Step 3 – Establishing the shoulder seam
- Measure from the center back line to the outside of the shoulder, record this measurement
- Draw in a vertical line using the distance measured above
- Measure from the center back at the waist line to that same outside shoulder point, record this measurement (Note; this will be measured on an angle)
- Mark the point measured above and draw in the line for the shoulder seam
Step 4 – Establish body width
- Measure across the back, from the center back line to the side seam, record this measurement
- Draw in the horizontal across back line using the measurement recorded above
- Measure from the center back waist line to the side seam, record this measurement
- Draw a hash mark at this distance on the waist line
Step 5 – Establishing side seam length
- Measure from the waist line at the side seam to the under arm, record this measurement
- Draw a hash mark at this measurement
- Draw a connecting line from the waist line to the under arm location
Step 6 – Connect the dots!
- Complete the pattern by connecting the dots. (Tip: the best tool for the job is the Dritz style and design ruler)
- Tip, make sure to “true” the pattern by making sure the following corners have right angles; center back waist and neck.
- Note; this is a simple bodice pattern without seam allowance, wearing ease, style lines, or darts. Please review my pattern making 101 series to learn more tips and tricks.
But, what about the front pattern?
Read the full post about how to draft the front bodice pattern block.
Test, test, test!
I would highly recommend sewing a muslin and testing the fit. At that point, any necessary adjustment can be made to the pattern block.
I hope you found this quick tutorial helpful!
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